Suction toy repair

Hello,

   This installment is for those small clear suction toys you buy from the adult toy shop, e-bay, and from dealers in Hong Kong. They work well, they are a clear plastic cup of varying sizes that has a plastic screw drive that pulls back a plastic plate with usually two black rubber o-rings. First off the O-rings are usually the basic black rubber o-rings, not silicone, nitrile, or epdm. To this be sure you only use Teflon or silicone or a combination of the two for greasing them, any mineral oil or Vaseline will ruin them! If you have damaged the o-rings in some way, fear not you can replace them! Try to use the following if you can for o-rings for more durability and longer life;

• NITRILE RUBBER (better)
• HBNR (best)
• EPDM (good)
• standard rubber (ok)

Using Nitrile, HBNR or EPDM you can use any lubircant you wish, mineral oil, vaseline, or silicone/Teflon lubricants.

     You'll need different o-rings for different size suction units. the easiest way is to go to an autoparts store and get a seal pick tool, this looks very similar to a dental pick, it's sharp on the end, and smooth down the shaft so as to not cut or damage the o-ring. Once you have the o-ring removed, take them into the auto parts store and have them see if they have the same size, it'll be metric in it's size since these are made in China. Try to see if you can get something better than the standard black rubber, if they can tell the size, then see if you can order HBNR fro the most durability. Always lubricate the rings after you install them before you screw the plate back into the cup.

     If your suction toy arrives with a chip in the base where it contacts skin, this will be a problem. This will cause both a lose of suction when using, and can be very uncomfortable. The way to repair these is to repair it with durable epoxy, here is a list of what you will need;

• JB Weld epoxy (2 part)
• 90% rubbing alcohol
• 1500 grit sandpaper (auto parts stores)
• wax paper
• flat smooth block of wood
• thumb tacks

Clean the damaged areas of the vacuum cup with a clean rag and 90% alcohol several times to remove any grease or oil. Then mix an even amount of PART A and PART B of the epoxy together and blend with a toothpick until it's ones even steel gray color. use the toothpick to apply the mixed epoxy to the chipped area then use a clean toothpick  smooth the area off level with the rest of the suction surface.  Now place the cup onto the wax paper on a smooth flat surface over night. The next day you can peel away the wax paper, clean with rubbing alcohal, if the surface isn't smooth enough use thumb tacks to attach the 1500 grit sandpaper to a smooth block of wood, and place the suction surface down onto the paper, and gently slide it around in a circular motion ont he flat surface a few times, then check to see if it's smooth.

Vacuum pumping play with a milking machine

Hello,


     This article will focus on the "BABSON SURGE BUCKET MILKER" in particular, but the principals are similar. Babson surge milkers are readily available on E-bay, ETSY, and other sites. In farming communities they are sold in various conditions in local newspapers. Under most circumstances you'll need to clean and rebuild the pulsator unit. You will need in addition to a working milking machine;

• a vacuum pump (3 cfm unit) (Harbor Freight)
• heavy vinyl hose to lengthen the connection from the pulsator to the teat cups
• plumbers silicone grease (Home Depot)
• RECTORSEAL TRU-BLUE sealant (Home Depot)
• vacuum relief valve (Grainger Supply)
• vacuum line caps (O'Reilly Auto Parts)
• brass plumbing fittings
• pulsator rebuild kit (Hanby Dairy Supply)
• Turtle Wax inside and out protectant (Home Depot)

     You can get a pulsator rebuild kit very easily from HANBY DAIRY SUPPLY. I recommend the pulsator rebuild kit with oil. You will also need cheap basic pipe cleaners, and some spray carburetor cleaner as well. Once you disassemble the pulsator completely, flush out the stainless steel body of the pulsator completely with carb cleaner, and run pipe cleaners though the various passages, then replace all the parts and oil thoroughly. 

     Since your not using the milker to actually milk productively, a simple modification will keep the system more compact and improve the vacuum pump performance. there is a small valve that sits between the milk tank and the pulsator, it's below the pulsator unit, remove this valve and reattach the pulsator, put silicone plumbers faucet grease on the o-rings and a thin layer on the milk tank lid's rubber seal. This modification will turn the milk tank into a vacuum buffer/storage tank. The vacuum pump that I listed above is for air-condition/refrigeration work, you'll need to remove the ACME hose fittings, and put some brass plumbing fittings in place of them with hose barbs to connect the vinyl hose from the pump to the milker, and a brass "T" between the pump and the milker to install the Vacuum relief valve to regulate the level of vacuum your applying. Seal the brass fitting with the rectorseal tru blue (teflon tape and regular rector seal will leak vacuum due to vibration!). There are three size of teat cups available for the babson surge, you'll have to experiment to see what works best for you. Always clean the rubber sleeves in the teat cups with mild soap and water, dry, them spray them with the "TURTLE WAX INSIDE AND OUT PROTECTANT" to protect the rubber from deterioration.

     The previous paragraph speaks of modifications good for general use, and for specifically using teat cups for nipple pumping. For vaginal/labia pump you can cap the vacuum line going to a teat cup, and connect a vaginal/labia (pussy pumping) cup sex toy to it, so you only have the pulsator line working the cup. The same modification will work for penis pumping as well, simple connect a penis pump to the pulsator connection, and cap off the vacuum line.

     As a final note, I would keep at least one extra rebuild kit on hand, if you keep the leather parts oiled, they will last forever, but every now and then they break or tear, or if unused for too long, the leather can dry out. Always check the pulsator leather seals before using, and oil first, otherwise you can tear a dried out leather, and ruin a working leather seal.

Forced orgasm play

     I thought i'd post an article about performing forced orgasm play. First off, if you've never done this, and your partner has never tried this before please use the following advice as guide lines;

1.  At the beginning level of forced orgasm play refrain from using ball gags or any kind of mouth gag during the stimulation session so as to be able to clearly hear a safe word when it's used.
2. A safe word needs to be in place before any bondage is started on the subject, rehearsed and that everybody is on the same page.
3. When you and your partner have experimented successfully with forced orgasm play a few times, and have reached a intermediate level of play, a ball gag or other mouth gag can be used during the bondage setup and extra stimulation setup, then removed just prior to stimulation to begin the orgasms.
4. With successful sessions of intermediate play, and a good knowledge of your subjects responses, you can then move on to advanced play with various mouth gags (ball,bit,penis,inflatable,etc) so you can know from their responses if something is now right.
5. I would like to suggest that if your subject uses the "SAFE WORD" during play, discontinue all external stimulation (vibrator, vacuum pumping, penetrating machine, mouth gags, etc) immediately, but maintain bondage until they calm down so as to prevent accidental injury to themselves or yourself.

     Different type of bondage are usable, but under most circumstances legs spread and restrained and arms restrained. Hitachi vibrators are the best for external genital stimulation, other ideas for external stimulation to increase pleasure are as follows;

• anal toys (plugs, dilators, vibrators)
• nipple clamps
• nipple suction
• genital suction
• sensory deprivation headphones
• sensory deprivation blindfolds
• sensory deprivation gas mask (can work better than blindfolds)
• breast bondage

     It is always best to start off lite and work your way up to more advanced play. simple wrist to ankle bondage while lying on ones back, with a spreader bar attached to the ankles can yield excellent results during stimulation. gradually increasing stimulation with each session by adding; nipple pumping, genital pumping, anal toys.

     Some subs will crave increased stimulation, some subs have found that they passed out from stimulation before reaching a new level of orgasm, just always keep in mind, "SAFE SANE PLAY". The idea behind forced orgasm is to continue to stimulate after the orgasm occurs, and keep going until the sub uses their safe word that they cannot handle any more. The best way to achieve this is through orgasm teasing, stimulate your sub, and as the approach orgasm, tapper off the stimulation. Continue to do this repeatedly, gradually increase the level of stimulation before the cut off to work them up to it. Some couples play a game of making the sub agree to various sex acts before they'll be allowed to reach orgasm. Once they reach orgasm, continue stimulation until they use their safe word to end it, and remember once the safe word is used, discontinue all stimulation, remove nipple clamps, or suction, leave anal toys in place, and tell our sub "take slow easy breaths to calm down" once they have calmed down, then you can disconnect bondage devices to free them.

How to care for Rubber goods

     Caring for rubber products is essential to prevent premature failure. There are various materials called rubber some are more resistant to chemicals and handling than others; Vulcanized rubber, Latex (natural rubber) Silicone rubber, Nitrile rubber, EPDM rubber are just a few. See the breakdown below;

• VULCANIZED RUBBER, no this has nothing to do with Mr. Spock's preferred form of birth control (Ha!). This rubber can be black white or gray usually, it's more resistant to damage both physical or chemical than natural rubber (latex), but will decay over time with exposure to alcohols, solvents, or natural oils. Best to clean with STERAMINE or CHLORHEXADINE to disinfect, and regular dish shop to remove dirt etcetera. Protect with a good silicone or teflon spray that's rubber safe, or automotive vinyl/rubber polishes.
• LATEX RUBBER (natural rubber), standard condom and rubber glove material, has proteins in it that some people have varying degrees of allergy to. Easily damaged by solvents and naturals oils (petroleum, vegetable, etc.). Best to clean with STERAMINE or CHLORHEXADINE to disinfect, and regular dish shop to remove dirt etcetera. Protect with a good silicone or teflon spray that's rubber safe, or automotive vinyl/rubber polishes.
• SILICONE RUBBER (synthetic), strong resilient and resistant to many solvents and oils. DO NOT USE SILICONE spray or lubricants with this, it will weaken or melt silicone rubber, use Teflon spray only, do not use rubber vinyl polishes as many have silicones that will damage silicone rubber. Avoid alcohols as they can dissolve silicone.
• NITRILE RUBBER (blue or black rubber gloves) Very solvent and oil resistant, expensive compared to latex
• EPDM RUBBER this is a composite rubber usually sold in sheets and is somewhat stretchy, very resistant to oils, cleaners, solvents. Best used as rubber sheets on beds that are very durable, usually black or dark grey, can be polished with Silicone, Teflon, or automotive vinyl/rubber polishes. More expensive than latex rubber sheet, and doesn't shine as easily, but will outlast latex, good investment.

Best Polishes for rubber I have found;

• Turtle wax shine for rubber, plastic, vinyl
• Armor all, high gloss
• WD-40 Silicone spray
• WD-40 TEFLON spray